October 2019

Dear Friends and Family,

First, apologies to those of you who tried to post a comment to my last post. I don't know if it is fixed now - hope so, but not holding my breath. Also apologies if the format, font, or color is not ideal for readability. If it all just looks gray, well. . . it's November in Northern Ireland - so that's completely appropriate.

Last time I was in Belfast was July 2016. I happened to be here for Orangemen's Day - an Ulster Protestant celebration held on July 12. It celebrates the victory of Protestant King William of Orange over Catholic King James II at the Battle of the Boyne which began the Protestant Ascendancy in Ireland. The para-military parade of Orange Order bands felt terrible to me.  I was staying at the Hilton and I asked my waitress what she thought of it all. She said she was Catholic and her grandmother lived in the Falls Road neighborhood during The Troubles. It doesn't bother her though. "It's just fun for the kids" she said.  Whaaat? I don't understand. Maybe it's what a community has to do to move forward from a full blown civil rights crisis. Maybe it's what it takes to keep the peace? Will Belfast ever not feel like a war zone? I took the Black Taxi tour to the Peace Wall when I was on that trip and the driver said that Belfast officials won't cancel the parade and other activities for fear of protest and a return to violence in the streets. They threaten to shut it down if they continue to burn  the pope in effigy on the annual massive tire bonfire in the Shankhill.  As luck would have it, Molly and Robb arrived in Dublin and invited me to join them. I couldn't get out of Belfast soon enough!

So, I'm back to see what normal Belfast feels like. Here are some notes and images from this month.

My airbnb is in the Queens University district - blocks and blocks of tenement housing for students with some airbnb in there as well. Belfast is fairly condensed - you can walk from west to east in a little over an hour. My place is close to Ormeau Park with its extensive trails and the riverwalk path leading to Harland and Wolff Heavy Industries (where RMS Titanic was built). Queens University includes Botanic Garden, Ulster Museum and a Starbucks that I like. Parts of Belfast are "in your face" visually. Other parts are an auditory assault. After dark it can get loud - what I thought might be gun shots were heavy boots kicking neighborhood doors. Police can't deal effectively with "Hoods". Groups of 12-16 year olds who terrorize neighborhoods. Some say shoot them as a deterrent. Others say that their families should have to move. Well, it's a problem. Graffiti and other gangs are too. I make it a point to be in my room by dark, but it's hard to sleep.

So I hoped to get some sleep elsewhere. First stop was Derry (all official literature will say Londonderry - Derry). After visiting the Museum of Free Derry, I'll never call it Londonderry again. Jimmy, a local who lived in the Bogside during the civil rights movement, was on duty at the museum. I was one of maybe ten people in the place, so Jimmy walked with me and told personal stories about his friends, neighbors and a teacher who were among the people killed during the Battle of Bogside and Bloody Sunday. Derry is an historic walled city with other museums and points of interest, but I would tell you that if you travel here, you MUST go to the Museum of Free Derry. It is an outstanding display that explains the troubles in Derry up to Bloody Sunday. It is lovingly curated by locals who lived it.

From Derry I went to Donegal city where it rained like crazy the entire time. I ate and slept well at the Abbey Hotel - it was perfect. The bus trip from Derry to Donegal was beautiful - green farmland, sheep, and wind turbines. I considered venturing further south into the Republic, but I've paid for the month in Belfast, so I returned. Some images from this month below.

Before you go further, you might want to check out this link - an article on visiting the walls that provides context past and present (and better pictures) https://www.timetravelturtle.com/belfast-peace-wall-murals-n-ireland/

Around the Peace Wall at Shankhill / Falls Road

 one of two beautiful new displays on the wall (to big/long to capture)

This display of walls is powerful and impossible to photograph

Walking along the river Lagan toward the docklands:

A trail in Botanic Garden

Fibrous Begonia in the Botanic glasshouse

In Derry's Bogside neighborhood.

Plaque at entrance to Museum of Free Derry - regarded as one of the best civil rights museums around the world. Upstairs is an area of solidarity displaying posters from around the world and a "maker space".

Jane at reception - her brother died at Bloody Sunday

A few pictures permitted in the museum, they said, "Just be sure to give us credit and a good rating on Trip Advisor "- I am and I did!

The original slogan on Free Derry Corner (1969) was in spired by Berkeley students' sign "You are Now Entering Free Berkeley".

 Many murals and posters in the Bogside neighborhood.

Peace Bridge (walking/cycling) across the river Foyle - I walked from train station across the bridge into Derry.

 Walkway under the wall. Tower Museum in background.

Walking part of the wall

The Guildhall and main square

Between Derry and Donegal:

 Wind power!

I'm off to Paris for the month of November. Happy holidays to you!

Wendy